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A visit to Apollo’s Flame Baked Pizza and Grill’s North Chesterfield location is akin to a visit to the land of the giants.

Portions are massive. A small calzone here overloads a dinner plate with its gooey, cheesy goodness.
It will bust your diet, but it’s well worth it.

We visited midafternoon on a recent weekday, and each opted for a small calzone ($8.99) instead of its large sibling ($12.99). Donna’s regular cheese calzone was packed with mozzarella, ricotta and Romano cheese, while I ordered the vegetable calzone, which added fresh broccoli, mushrooms, garlic and spinach to the cheeses.

They were superb on their own, but Apollo’s tomato sauce, which we had served in a cup on the side, is sublime. It’s appropriately tart with a hint of sweetness.

It was our first visit, so we didn’t know that one could easily serve two. As it was, we each had leftovers to take home for another lunch.

We arrived well after lunch and there was no server on duty, but the friendly host behind the counter ably served double duty. He accommodated us by fixing a fresh pot of coffee, and was fast and efficient in serving us and removing clutter from the table.

The dining room here is clean, open and airy, well lighted even on a cloudy day. There are televisions on in the corners, but the sound is turned down enough so that they are unobtrusive.

Apollo’s has four locations in metro Richmond. The menu is an eclectic mix of traditional Mediterranean fare, subs, sandwiches and salads.

Lunch is served 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. For lunch, you get garlic bread served with entrees, and you get a salad and bread with your entrée for dinner. Lunch portions are $3 or $4 cheaper, though.

Some of the signature dishes sound intriguing. For example, Chesapeake Chicken ($7.95 lunch, $13.99 dinner) is a sautéed chicken breast with shredded crab over fettucine with an Alfredo sauce.

There’s an array of appetizers offered, many that you wouldn’t expect in an Italian eatery, including crab fondue ($6.95) and jalapeno bites ($3.99, $7.49).

Pizza is the star here. As with the calzones, you can go super-size here. A small pie is a generous 12 inches in diameter, and you can go up to a jumbo, a massive, 20-inch pie. Prices are reasonable, with a small cheese starting at $8.99, and a jumbo cheese costing $18.99

We’ll give a pie a try on our next visit. And we’ll stick with the small.

ON THE MENU
WHAT: Apollo’s Flame Baked Pizza and Grill
WHERE: 10226 Midlothian Turnpike, North Chesterfield; also in Virginia Center Commons, Short Pump and West End, see website
WHAT’S THERE: Italian fare, subs, sandwiches, soups salad
TRY THE: Calzones, but be forewarned: One small calzone is enough for 2
THE VERDICT: ***
CALL: (804) 320-9595
SEE: Apollostogo.com